Kumaş ve konfeksiyon ürünlerinde performans test standartları ve kalite kontrol
Başlık çevirisi mevcut değil.
- Tez No: 68919
- Danışmanlar: YRD. DOÇ. DR. FATMA KALAOĞLU
- Tez Türü: Yüksek Lisans
- Konular: Tekstil ve Tekstil Mühendisliği, Textile and Textile Engineering
- Anahtar Kelimeler: Belirtilmemiş.
- Yıl: 1997
- Dil: Türkçe
- Üniversite: Akdeniz Üniversitesi
- Enstitü: Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü
- Ana Bilim Dalı: Tekstil Mühendisliği Ana Bilim Dalı
- Bilim Dalı: Belirtilmemiş.
- Sayfa Sayısı: 136
Özet
Tekstil ihracatımızın en büyük pazarı olan Avrupa Birliğinden sonra hızla tekstil üreticileri için cazip hale gelen Amerika pazarına göndereceğimiz konfeksiyon ürünlerinde iyi bir müşteri servisi için ve bu pazarda ilerlemek amacı ile Amerika'lı müşterilerin istediği standartları imalatta yakalamamız germektedir. Amerika'lı müşterilerin yoğun olarak çalıştığı uzakdoğu ülkeleri bizim en büyük rakibimizdir. Uzakdoğu ülkelerinin Türkiye' ye nazaran çok daha ucuz fiyatlar vermesi uzakdoğu' yu sipariş akışına neden olmaktadır. Fakat bunun yanında uzakdoğu ülkelerinin Amerika kotalarım bir yerden soma bitirmesi ve müşteriye cevap verememesi, Amerika'lı müşterilerin Türkiye'dede pazar aramasına neden olmuştur. Bu yüzden Amerika'ya mal gönderebilmek için gerekli performans test standartlarım yakalamamız gerekmektedir.Bu performans test standartları şu şekilde sıralanır. 1. Boyutsal Değişim 2. Yıkamada Renk Haslığı 3. Sürtünmede Renk Haslığı 4. Dönme 5. Yanmazlık ö.Düğme veya Çıt Çıt Mukavemeti 7. Örme Kumaşlarda Patlama 8.Dokuma Kumaşlarda Uzama Burada saydığımız testlere göre imalat kumaşları test edilir ve çıkan test sonuçlarına bağlı olarak müşteriden üretimde kullanılacak yıkama talimatı gelir. Aynı zamanda imalatçı kesime girmeye hak kazanır. Bundan soma ayrıca imalattan çıkan ilk imalat numuneside numune testine girer. İmalatçılar için yeni ve detaylı bir pazar olan Amerika, diğer müşterilere oranla zorluğuna rağmen,sipariş adetlerinin yüksekliği ve seri imalatta ve entegre tesislere uygunluğu açısından üreticiler tarafından girilmek istenen bir pazardır. IX
Özet (Çeviri)
Textile sector is öne of the bigest exporting branch of my countty, so I'm proud of being a textile engineer and vvorking in this branch. Every day textile is opening to the new bazaars and also is in big competition with the other countries especially far east Hong Kong, Taiwan, Thailand. in our sector American bazaar is not new,but they are growing in our market day by day. in that point of view IVe tried to search which quality standarts that we must catch in order to enter this market which is attractive for our manufcaturers. Stili Tm working as a merchandiser at agent of“ Dodwell”in North Amerika depaıtment. I've prepared this report in order to be more succesful and to be able to work more conscious in my work,also would like to share ali the knowledges with you I've learaed from this market. The largest export market for Turkish textiles and clothing in terms of value is the EU. Among the EU countries, Germany has the largest share.The second largest market is USA. An analysis of the Turkish clothing industry between 1980-1991 indicates that the sector has the highest rate of growth in exports (23.2 % ). As such, Turkey became the 4th among the countries exporting to the EU in 1986, and the fîrst in 1992. Another interesting factor in the clothing exports is that while the volumes have not changed signifîcantly, the value of exports has increased dramatically.This is because the sector has rapidly shifted its exports to higher value-added goods.Germany is öne of the most important buyer of Turkish up- market clothing products, and this distinguishes it further from the second largest importer, the USA. XTurkey 's competitors in the European Markets especially east assian producers have clear advantages interms of access to cheaper labor, cheaper raw materials and energy. These countries enjoy upto 15-30 percent cost advantages in their production in puts compared to Turkey, which has only a 4-20 percent advantage in production in puts against the European countries. However, Turkey has important advantages, too. Geographical proximity to the EU which is one of the world' s largest markets is one such advantage. Turkey' s textile sector has also labour costs advantages in comparison to European countries,but is this advantaged, compared to the non european competitors with the exception of South Korea, Singapore, Taiwan. Turkey has a 9 % exporting to U.S. market from all apperal exports which is the second big market for Turkey. In my report I've searched the performance test methods and their standarts for production fabrics and garments before sniping to U.S.A. and on the other side fabric quality control standarts. My report consist of the following performans test procedures that U.S. costumers are currently asking for the production fabric to be tested. 1. Dimensional Stability 2.Colorfastness to Home Laundering S.Colorfastness to Washing 4.Colorfastness to Crocking 5. Torque ö.Flammability 7.Snap or Button Strength 8.Bursting of The Knitted Fabric lO.Tensile Strength of Woven Fabric 11. Pilling When the production fabric comes to the factory, vendor must put the fabric to the full test and according to the received test results. Costumer is advising back the approved care instructions. Then the vendor can prepare the care labels accordingly and the other colors in the order must also tested for shrinkage and colorfastness. XIAfter all these vendor is able to begin cutting the fabric, when the production begins and the production garments begin to come out from production,vendor is responsible of make a full test to the production sample also the trimming test if there is any accesorries. Customers always requires garment test from us in order to check the production garments are made from the production fabrics that is already tested. Dimensional stability test metod is intended for the determination of the dimensional changes of woven and knitted fabrics made of fibers other than wool when subjected to laundering procedures commonly used in a comercial laundry. Dimensional change is a generic term for changes in length or width of a fabric specimen subjected to washing, rinsing, bleaching, drying. The change is usually expressed as a percentage of the initial dimension of the specimen. As a result of dimensional stability test there can come out growth or shrinkage. Growth is a dimensional change resulting in an increase in the length or width of the specimen. Shrinkage is oppisite of growth, it is resulting as decrease in the length or width of a specimen. Percentage of dimensional change is determined as the difference between original dimension and dimension after laundering diveded by original measurement. Shrinkage will be given as minus and growth will be as possitive. Colorfastness to laundering tests are designed for evaluating the colorfastness to laundering of textiles which are expected to withstand frequent laundering. The fabric color loss and surface changes resulting from detergent solution and abrasive action of home laundering, with or without chlorine, are closely approximated by one 45-minute test. Staining is a function of the ratio of colored to undyed fabrics, fiber content of fabrics in the wash load and other end-use conditions which are not always predictable. Colorfastness is the resistance of a material to change in any of its color characteristics, to transfer of its colorants to adjacent materails, or both, as a. result of the exposure of the material to any environment that might be encountered during the processing, testing, storage or use of the material. Color change is evaluated by using the gray scale for color change between the original fabric and laundered one. Also the multi-fiber staining is determined with the gray scale for staining between multi-fiber fabric and original multi-fiber fabric. XIIColorfastness to crocking is designed to determine the atnount of color transferred from the surface of colored textile materials to other surfaces by rabbing.A colored test specimen is rabbed with wbite crock test cloth under controlled conditions. Color transferred to the wbite test cloth is evaluated with the original white fabric with the gray scale for staining. Tvvisting knit garments in laundering is intended to determine the acceptable level of garment twisting (torquing ) from the natural side, which may occur in knit garments after laundering. There is two ways to measure the percentage of tvvisting.Öne is determined as the length from the hem to under armhole is divided by twisting measurement. Second way is determined as the tvvisting measurement is divided by sweep measurement Twisting is affected by the way of the kniting machine knit the fabric and the spinnig way of the yarn as S ör Z. in order not to have tvvisting on the garment, knitting direction of the fabric and spinning direction of the yarn must be in opposite directions. Flammability ; although most fabrics burn, apparel fabrics must not exhibit a fast burning rate when subjected to the testing conditions required. The code of Federeal Regulations 16 CFR 1610 is a govemment flammability regulation under the auspices of the Consurner Product Safety Commision with which ali adult and children' s wearing apparel fabric, except hats, gloves and footwear, must comply. This flammability test identifîes fabrics that burn intensely and rapidly enough to be considered dangerous. The degree to which a fabric will ignite and burn is affected by öne ör more of the fabric characteristics such as fiber content, fabric construction, yarn, chemical finishes. The factor that most directly affects fabric flammabüity is fiber content : Cotton, rayon, ramie, silk and acetate are examples of fabrics that can exhibit intense burning. Loosely woven and lightweight fabrics, usually vveighing less than 2.6 ounces per square yard, burn more rapidly than tightly woven and heavyvveight fabrics. Napped ör raised fiber surface fabrics, such as flannel and fleece, have increased surface flammability. Fabrics containing low twist yarns ignite more rapidly than fabrics containing high twist yarns. Certain chemical finishes can change the properties of a fiber ör fabric. xiiiTherefore, fabrics which are not ordinarily highly flammable can become highly flammable as a result of the finishes. For non - raised fiber surfaced fabrics the time for the spread of the flame is 3.5 seconds or more in order to accept the test is passing. For the raised - fiber surface fabrics the time of flame spread is 7 seconds or more. Button or snap strength is also determined by pulling the button or snap with an increasing force and measuring the applied force that the button or snap is pulled out from its place. Also according to the acceptable level of pilling of the fabrics, pilling test is done and the fabric is evaluated. Bursting is the tension force that is applied on the knitted fabric by giving air pressure under the knitted fabric to determine when the fabric will be torn. Tensile strength is evluated on the woven fabric showing under which force the fabric will be torn and what will be the length of the fabric. One of the important issue is to do quality control on the fabric before the manufacturer begin cutting the fabric.The most important defects found on the fabric while doing the quality control are abrasion mark, bow, coir fly, color out, color smear, crease mark, hole, missing yam, drop stitches, printing machine stop, needle line, shade change, lighter weight, sanforize pucker, runner, puckered selvage. In my report all the above mentioned test methods are applied different kinds of knitted fabrics and tried to search the fabric and garment test reults according to the method of knitting process. By testing both fabric and the garment made from the same fabric,easily the difference between fabric and garment test results has been searched. I ' ve worked with Inchcape laboratories for my report and Inchcape is the only laboratory which has American washing machine in their laboratory. XIV
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