Poliester/viskon ipliklerde lif ve iplik özelliklerinin iplik tüylülüğüne tesiri
Effects of fibre and yarn characteristics for polyester/viscose blends on yarn hairiness
- Tez No: 14348
- Danışmanlar: DOÇ.DR. BÜLENT ÖZİPEK
- Tez Türü: Yüksek Lisans
- Konular: Tekstil ve Tekstil Mühendisliği, Textile and Textile Engineering
- Anahtar Kelimeler: Belirtilmemiş.
- Yıl: 1991
- Dil: Türkçe
- Üniversite: İstanbul Teknik Üniversitesi
- Enstitü: Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü
- Ana Bilim Dalı: Belirtilmemiş.
- Bilim Dalı: Belirtilmemiş.
- Sayfa Sayısı: 77
Özet
ÖZET İplik yüzeyinden sarkan çeşitli uzunluklardaki lifleri ifade eden iplik tüylügü günümüzde iplikçiler ve dokumacılar açısından değişik sorunlara yol açmaktadır. Tüylülükteki artış eğirme esnasında uçuntu artışından, üretilen kumaşların tutum ve boncuklanmasına kadar üretimin değişik safhalarında tesirli olmakta ve bundan dolayı dokuma ya da örgü kumaşlar ikinci kaliteye düşebilmektedir. Bu açıdan düşünüldüğünde iplik tüylülüğü mukavemet, düzgünsüzlük, büküm, numara ve hatalar (ince yer, kalın yer, neps) kadar önemli olmaktadır. I960" lı yıllardan itibaren yapılan çalışmalar incelendiğinde ring ve rotor eğirmede eğirme, çekim elemanları, makine ve ayarları, hammadde gibi hususların iplik tüylülügüne nasıl tesir ettiği gösterilmiş ve daha az tüylü bir iplik üretimi için değişik öneriler sunulmuştur* ancak verilen öneriler ya da proses ve klima koşullarının sonuçları işletmeler arası tüylülük açısından farklı sonuçlar vermiştir. Bu tez poliester/viskon (67/33) harmanının harmanı oluş turan elyaf ile iplik özelliklerinin iplik tüylülügüne tesirini mevcut fabrika koşullarında inceleyen deneysel bir çalışmadır. Çalışmanın harman dışında diğer önemli bir özelliği yüzey işlemeleri farklı tip ve numaraları ise aynı olan kopçalarla tüylülük değişimini göstermek olmuştur. Egrilen Ne 28/1 ve Ne 20/1 ring-rotor ipliklerinin numara, büküm, mu kavemet, düzgünsüzlük ve tüylülük ölçümleri fabrikanın fizik laboratuvarında gerçekleştirilmiş sonuçlar 1989 Uster istatistikleriyle karşılaştırılmıştır. Ayrıca ölçüm sonuçlarının kopça tiplerine göre değişimleri bir paket program kullanılarak bilgisayara çizdirilmiştir. ölçümler sonunda tüylülük değerleriyle büküm, numara, mukavemet değerleri arasında yapılan ikili regrasyon analiz sonuçlarıda yorumlu olarak verilmiştir. IV
Özet (Çeviri)
EFFECTS OF FİBRE AND YARN CHARACTERISTICS :. FOR POLYESTER/ VISCOSE BLENDS ON YARN HAIRINESS SUMMARY Yarn hairxnes xs created by the fibres protruding out of the spun yarns thus imparting xt a fuzzy appearance. Haxrxness of yarn is important in a number of ways. During manufacturing operations subsequent to yarn formation, any increase in hairiness usually leads to increased production of fly. This can be especially troblesome in warp knitting. In a warp, increased hairiness increas the probability entanglement of adjacent ends, whxch frequently leads to end breakage» In the fabric itself the degree of hairiness of the yarn affects the visual and tactile character of the fabric, the softer it feels and the more it tends to obscure the underlying f ibEie. structure; this is seen in the extreme with napped fabrics. Pilling performance of a fabire also depends on the degree of hairiness of the fabrics. Since the yarn hairiness parameters were first defined.acid measured, the sources of yarn hairiness have been investigated in connection with such factors as fiber para meters, spinning process, and yarn parameters. The liteda- ture on this subject is extensive and has been summarized in PART 2. General observation or comments made on the subject of hairiness are interesting. Discussions with technologist show that everyone is aware of the high importance of yarn hairiness. The question that remains is xf a minimum pos sible hairiness xs a general requirement or.'xf xt should have a specific value or simply remain constant. Opinions differ somewhat here, and xt may be clearly established that different views are held depending on the sector of xndustry in which the intervieved person works. A certain degree of hairiness is in fact necessary where afull yarn is needed or where the handle of the end product is impor tant. It may be established that the subjective sensation of soft handle is related to hairiness, in other words, soft handle with a high number of projecting fibres. Specific confirmation of this has not yet been investigated. Large inter-package differences are very troublesome. If a package has a significantly greater of significantly lower haxrxness than the other packages, aweft stripe can occur for instance which reflects light differently. This can occur especially in some piece-dyed fabrics. A lot Vof projecting fibres produce a somewhat darker appearance, few fibres a somewhat lighter appearance. It is also known that hairy yarns are appreciably more sensitive to abrasion in subsequent processing. A hairy yarn is more easily rouhened than one having few projecting fibres. How does hairiness occur? How can it be controlled? These questions too are impossible to answer in detail at the present time. It is already known, however, that the spinning machine is primarily responsible for yarn hairiness, Some of these are purely mechanical question of machine desxgn, such as the geometry of the spinning zone etc. Drafts also have a significant influence. The actual travellers also exert a consi derable influence as demonst rated in the obtained results in PART 2 and PART 3. Less freq. uently, the causes of yarn hairiness lie in the roving. In order to prevent hairiness during yarn production and/ or processing, a lot of investigations are carried out to determine the factors which affect yarn hairiness. But due to the different conditions in plants, the problem causes various difficulties. The hairiness of open-end spun yarns has been studied by many researchers. The first references are stated that open-end spun yarns are less hairy than conventional ones spun from cotton of the same raw material and the same linear density as a consequence of the difference in the structure between two types of yarn. Open-end spun yarns are even less hairy than combed yarns. A specific study of the nature of the hairiness of open-end-spun cotton yarns has been made by using classical optical methods. The conclusions from this study show that number of protruding ends is less for open-end-spun yarns than for conventional ones, but the number of loops is larger for open-end spun yarns that for conventional ones, as expected from the difference in structure between the two types of yarn. The mean length of the protruding ends is less for open-end spun yarns than for conventional ones. A study of the distribution of protruding ends showed that the largest differences were, on the one hand, VIin the percentage of very short ends and, on the other, in the lotng ends. The former are present to a greater extent in open-end spun yarns than in conventional yarns. For the lo.ng ends, the frequencies were higher for conventional yarns. Recent studies confirm these results. Previous studies show that hairiness is more irregulary distributed in open-end spun yarns than in conventional yarns. In this study, it can be clearly seen (CV“(OE) % = 7.8 % and CV”(ring) % = 1.6 %). Althaugh it has been shown in some studies that OE yarns are more bulky but less hairy than corresponding ring yarns due to the differences in the nature of the surfaces of the, two sortsof yarn, loops more prominent in OE yarns, in this study OE yarns are more bulky and hairy than ring- spun yarns. The reason may be either raw material or the used apparatus (USTER TESTER 3). The studies concerning the influence of the opening- roller speed on the hairiness of cotton open-end-spun yarns for various of the applied twist' multiplier show that the opening-roller speed does not influence yarn haini- ness to a significant extent. The influence of nozzle type on yarn diameter is negligible, thaugh on increase in nozzle diameter or the precence of grooves tends to increase yarn diameter slighty. In rotor-spun yarns from man-made fibres, the effect of twist on hairiness seems to be of little importance and of course, smaller than for conventional yarns. The liear density of the yarn always influences the hairiness. The greater the linear density, the higher is the hairiness. In this experimental study, which is focussed on difi- ferent problems in plants, the yarn hairiness for polyester/ viscose blends are examined from the fibrograph values of fibers to the winding process and the results for certain yarn count and twist are compared and explained by means of barcharts and graphics. Before summarizing these results, some information about the hairiness testing has been given below: VIIYarn hairiness is an important quality characteristic which can only be determined on the basxs of random samples. Monitoring by on-line systems is not at possible. Testing up to now has involved counting those hairs projecting laterally which exceeded a specified length. This method is imprecise as xt is dependent upon the testing speed and mechanical feotures of the test apparatus. The result-pare of low statistical significance and are frequently not reproducible. Nevetheless, hairiness is a factor has been the subject of a great deal of testing work and here and there, certain in-house standarts or limit values have been established. Unfortunately, however, there has been very little inter laboratory reproducibility in the results. This conting of projecting fibres has therefore met with little success. Now that yarn hairiness measurement can be performed on an entirely new basis at maximum speed simultaneously with other tests, the sitiuation has changes completely. High testing speeds enable reliable statistically significant hairiness results to be obtained in ashort time, and also show the variability. The hairiness testing module of the Uster Tester 3 enables reproducible results to be obtained because it does not count the projecting fibers, but rather senses the total fibre length in cm of allfibres projecting from the body of the yarn wi thing a test zone 1cm long. Thrs hairiness index is called H and its variation CV". As it is reproducible, it is also possible to calculate ana publish comparison values, in the form of USTER STATISTISC. Both the experiments of rotor spun and ring-spun yarns have been made in the physical laboratory of the factory. There are two different blends. The first blend consists of 1.65 dtex viscose and 2.75 dtex poliester (67%). The second one consists of 1.65 dtex poliester and 1.65 dtex viscose. The blend rates are the same. The important conclusions derived from the experiments can be summarized as follows: a) The hairiness of the second blend is lower than the first one. b) Althoughit has been found a high correlation coeffici ent between the hairiness and the yarn count, and the hairiness the twist for the first blend, there has been no correlation VIIIbetween these parameters for the second blend. c) Four different traveller manufactured by different firms have been tried: - In the first blend, the hairiness values of B ty£e are always high and those of C type are always are always low. - In the second blend, there is not certain result. d) The hairiness and other characteristics of Ne 20/1 Ring and rotor-spun yarns have been compared: - The hairiness of rotor-spun yarn is higher than that of ring yarn. - There are important differences between other measurer; ment results, such as eveness, imperfections, break- force, tenacity, etc, In conculusion, the obtained results shows that the w. rawmaterial, fibre caunt, yarn count, the surface finish on the traveller, the type 'of spinning process (ring or rotor yarns) affect yarn hairiness. For this reason, for manufac turing withopt difficulty in every step of textile, the aim must be to achieve the lowest possible hairiness. IX
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