Dokuma komuşlarda boncuklaşma ve ölçüm metodlarının karşılaştırılması
Comparison of the measuring methods of the pilling of fabrics
- Tez No: 39813
- Danışmanlar: PROF.DR. BÜLENT ÖZİPEK
- Tez Türü: Yüksek Lisans
- Konular: Tekstil ve Tekstil Mühendisliği, Textile and Textile Engineering
- Anahtar Kelimeler: Belirtilmemiş.
- Yıl: 1994
- Dil: Türkçe
- Üniversite: İstanbul Teknik Üniversitesi
- Enstitü: Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü
- Ana Bilim Dalı: Belirtilmemiş.
- Bilim Dalı: Belirtilmemiş.
- Sayfa Sayısı: 84
Özet
ÖZET Boncuklaşmanın sebeplerinin ve ölçüm metodları arasındaki farklılıkların, sonuçlara göre olan etkisinin bilinmesi, kumaşların kalite kontrol değerlendirmeleri açısından önemlidir. Numuneler en az 24 saat kondisyonlandıktan sonra kumaş analizleri yapılmıştır. Karışım oranlarına göre sınıflandırılan kumaşların boncuklaşma özelliklerinin ICI ve IWS Boncuklaşma Kutu ve Martindale Aşındırma Test Cihazları kullanılmıştır. Bu cihazların standart deney numuneleri şeklinde hazırlanan kumaşlar, ICI cihazında 18000 Devir/ dak., IWS cihazında 14400 Devir/dak. ve Martindale cihazın da, 0-10bin-20bin devirlerdeki numune ağırlıkları ölçülmek suretiyle, 20000 Devir/dak. aşındırma işlemlerine tabi tutulmuşlardır. Standart boncuklaşma fotoğraflarından elde edilen sonuçlara göre yapılan değerlendirmeler, ICI ve IWS sonuçlarının birbirlerine genelde yakın, Martindale sonuçlarının ise daha iyimser olduğu bulunmuştur. Sonuç olarak, kumaş özelliklerinin boncuklaşma üzerine önemli ölçüde et kili olduğu ileri sürülmüştür.
Özet (Çeviri)
COMPARISON OF THE MEASURING METHODS OF THE PILLING OF FABRICS. SUMMARY In this study, the effect of structure of fabrics on pilling and compairing the measuring methods have been studied. In the second chapter, scientific investigation on this subject has been given. The process of pilling results in a degradation in the appearance and handle of the textile article are con cerned. The severity and duration of this process very considerably form a localized minor disturbance on the fabric surface to a compromise the acceptability and performance of the product. The severity of pilling is most often judged in terms of the numerical density of pills on the fasric surface, and fabrics that pill rapidly have a high rate of pill wear-off are likely to be consi dered better from an aeshetic wiew point than fabrics with a low rate of pilling but a lower rate of pill vear- off. Although the problem of pilling has probably been recognized for a long time, it receved little mention in the literature prior to' 1950 and apparenly was accepted as a normal feature of the effect of wear on textile products. The introduction of synthetic fibres to the market place caused two main changes, first the severity and largevity of the pilling. was greatly increased and second the. brandname marketing of the synthetic fibres ensured that the concumers know exactly who to blame for the deg radation in performance. VIIt is clear that the increased strength and flex of synhetic fibres and greatly the rate of pill wear-off and result in pill densities are greatly increasing pill life. For this reason, the synthetic fibre manufacturers have paid particular attention to methods of pill control that increase the rate of pill loss, aswell as to methods of increasing the coefficient of friction of the fibre within the yarn structure with the aim of reducing fibre movement. The majority of synthetic fibres with low pill properties have a lower than normal tenacity for their jeneric class and in particular have low wlex lives. The tenacity and rigidity of fibres affect the fuzz development phase and subsequent fuzz entanglement. The fibre properties associated with different stages of the pilling mechanism were tensile strength, percent elonga tion, flex abrasion, bending rigidity, fibre denier and the shape of fibre. The fibre with high tenacity and low bending rigidity generated high fuzz densities and high rate of initial pill developments. Oh the other hand, ihgh tensile strength and flex decreased the rate of pill wear-off. An ealier study indicated that polyester and nylon had moderate rates of pill development but very low rates of pill wear-off due to their high tensile strength in all man?-made and blended products. The demand for softer, thinner and lighter garments has been met by reducing twist factor and fabric cover factors and both these changes increase the tendenncy to pill. There is no doubt that the formation and wear-off a high density of pills remove significant quantities of fibre from the fabric surface, but if such a large area of garment surface, it will not necessarily in fabric break down. Pilling is generally concerned to be a self limiting process occuring in four main stages, fuzz formation pill entanglement and growth and pill wear-off. The intial effect of abrasion on the surface of a fabric is the for mation of fuzz as a result of two processes, the brushing up of free fibres end not enclosed within the yarn struc ture and the conversion of fibre loops. A criticial fuzz height dependent on the fiber charac teristic before pill formation causes fuzz entanglement. Motoji and Tsujimoto studied fuzz entanglement using time lapse techniques and a rotary abrading that the process was initiated by a“node”formed by a knot or a piece of Vllforeign matter. Cooke undertook a series of time lapse experiments using a Martindale Abrasion Tester as a pill generator. The fibre entangglement occured between fibres in the normal fuzz array. In the process of pill growth pill anchors are heavily fatigued. The anchor fibres are being progressively drawn up in to the pill body. The process of anchor fatigue often start low down the fuzz array to close to the yarn surface where the fibres are securely held. Fuzz generation occurs first and it is complete before pilling takes place. Pill growth then occurs a result of the entanglement of this strictly limited reserve of fuzz and the process of anchor brekage removes the majority df the pills from the fabric surface. Pill wear-off will occur because of the fracture of the anchors as a result of fatigue or other damages or because of the anchor fibres being pulled out, or as a result of a combination of both factors. The figure 1 shows that the pull out/roll-up mechanism of pill growth. Fibre remova uelecllve nitration and pilling I by
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