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Örgü esaslı bir fantazi iplik makinasının esneklikleri

Flexibility of a fancy yarn machine

  1. Tez No: 66529
  2. Yazar: BAHAR ÖZCAN
  3. Danışmanlar: PROF. DR. BÜLENT ÖZİPEK
  4. Tez Türü: Yüksek Lisans
  5. Konular: Tekstil ve Tekstil Mühendisliği, Textile and Textile Engineering
  6. Anahtar Kelimeler: Belirtilmemiş.
  7. Yıl: 1997
  8. Dil: Türkçe
  9. Üniversite: İstanbul Teknik Üniversitesi
  10. Enstitü: Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü
  11. Ana Bilim Dalı: Tekstil Mühendisliği Ana Bilim Dalı
  12. Bilim Dalı: Belirtilmemiş.
  13. Sayfa Sayısı: 100

Özet

ÖZET“Konstrüksiyonunda istenerek düzgünsüzlükler yapılarak çap, hacim veya renginde”farklılıklar yaratılan ve konvansiyonel ipliklerden net bir biçimde ayrılabilen özel iplikler" şeklinde tanımlanan fantazi iplikler, dünyadaki tüm moda tasarımcıları tarafından dokuma ve örgü kumaşlarda moda elemanı olarak kullanılmaktadır. Fantazi ipliklerin yaratıcı etkisi, basit örgüler ve bunlarla yapılan kumaş konstrüksiyonlarının karmaşık olmayan üretim makinaları ile ekonomik olarak elde edilmesini sağlamaktadır. Konvansiyonel iplik üretim sistemlerinin değişik aşamalardaki elemanlarının modifiye edilmesiyle pekçok çeşit fantazi iplik yapılabildiği gibi, yeni iplik eğirme sistemleri veya dokuma, örgü esaslı işlemlerle de farklı fantazi iplikler elde edilmektedir. Kullanılan malzemeler ya da uygulanan işlemler değiştirilerek daha çeşitli ve makina hızları ayarlanarak daha verimli fantazi iplik üretimi sağlanmaya çalışılmaktadır. Bu tez, aynı esasa göre üretilen temelde iki, özelde dört değişik fantazi ipliğin üretiminde, öncelikle makina hızı ile kullanılan iplik kalınlıkları ve elastan ipliğin etkisini araştıran ve bu doğrultuda makinanın esnekliklerini inceleyen deneysel bir çalışmadır. Makinanın çekim hızı, kullanılan iplik kalınlıkları, örücü ünitede çalışan iğne sayısı gibi özellikleri değiştirmek ve zemine elastan iplik eklemek suretiyle 62 çeşit fantezi iplik elde edilmiştir. Çeşitli özellikleri farklı olan bu 62 değişik ipliğin numaraları belirlenmiş, 1 cm.deki ilmek sıklıkları sayılmış ve Textechno Statigraph cihazıyla kopma mukavemetleri ile kopma uzamaları ölçülmüştür. Elde edilen bu değerlerle değiştirilen parametre arasındaki ilişki incelenerek sonuçlar tablo, grafikler halinde yorumlanarak verilmiştir.

Özet (Çeviri)

SUMMARYE Yarns may be made directly as man-made continuous filaments or they may be spun from short staple fibres. The continuous filament yarns are the simplest m structure but they are now being subjected to many modifying processes designed to change their bulk, texture, extensibility and other properties. Spun yarns have the additional complexity of the discontinuities at the fibre ends. There are, of course, many differences in spun yarns depending on the type of spinning system. Spun yarns may be blended from more than one type of fibre. Continuous filament yarns, modified continuous filament yarns and spun yarns are in the group of the single yarns. Multifold yarns (formerly called ply yarn's) are made by twisting together two or more single yarns; cabled yarns ( or cords ) by twisting together multifold yarns. Other yarns may have a complex structure of different fibres arranged in particular forms, such as a continuous filament core surrounded by staple fibres. Fancy yarns, that are the last group of the yarns, are mainly of decorative interest: they are made by introducing special forms of irregularity or hairiness in to either spun or continuous filament yarns. Fancy yarn the British term for which is“Effect Yarn”, designates yarn deviation in structure, fibre composition and/or colour from normal flat yarn. In single yarns, irregularities may be due to the inclusion of knots, loops, curls, slubs and the likes. In plied yarns, the irregularities may be due to a variable delivery of one or more of its components or to twisting together dissimilar single yarns or to using different systems which are based on knitting or weaving. There are many styles of fancy yarns that differ from each other with respect to color, composition and texture. Each yarn style is created to meet a particular requirement when it is subsequently converted into xifabric and garment. It's difficult, however, to define“style”in terms of numerical values, since minor changes in raw materials and processing conditions result in significantly different yarns and fabrics. With stylish fabrics, fancy yarn is used to produce a natural, rustic and attractive appeal of the product. Today, fashion designers all over the world, are utilizing fancy yarn as a stylish element in woven and knitted fabrics. The creative effect of fancy yarns enables plain bindings respectively fabrics conductions, to be manifactured economically by uncomplicated production machinery. Methods enabling a wide range of the fancy yarns to be created may be grouped into two large classes : direct and indirect. Fancy yarns produced by direct systems are obtained on the spinning frame by means of additional devices fitted on the machine; in indirect methods, the yarns are produced by modifying the conventional processing techniques both ubstream of spinning ( eg. in carding ) and downstream ( eg. dyeing, raising, knitting, etc. ).For example: -Direct Metods; Spinning on modified ringframes Ground and superimposed slub yarns. Plain or slubbed boucte or soufle yarns. Plain ör slubbed jasp£ yarns. Knop yarns. Puff yarns. Spinning on hollow-spindle twisters Ground and superimposed slub yarns up to four colours. Plain, slubbed or multicoloured boucl6, soufle and jasp£ yarns. Knop yarns. Multicoloured yarns. Spinning on open-end-spinning machines -Indirect Metods; Blend preparation Ground and superimposed slub yarns. Nub yarns. Sliver preparation Carding Nub yarns. Ombr6 yarns. Single-slubbed, superimposed or multicoloured yarns. Ombre yarns. Nub yarns. XllDyeing Multicoloured yarns. Ombre yarns. Raising Fluffy bulk yarns. There are also some fancy yarns which are produced in indirect methods. They are obtained by weaving or knitting. For example; chenille yarn is made on weaving frame. The subject of this study whose the production system is based on knitting process is another sample. This fancy yarn machine works like a circular knitting machine and mainly two types of fancy yarn are produced by it: The first type is a feathery yarn and consists of two yarns ; One is the core and the other forms feather. The second type is like a hose-pipe and it is constituted by knitting one yarn. The first effect yarns, such as slub, boucle* and knop types, became an established textile novelty in the last century, but it was only in the 1970s that non-traditional yarns experienced booming development, thanks to the mechanical and technological progress that made it possible to overcome production difficulties and to control processing costs, which, owing to the lower productivity of the machines and equipment needed to produce them, are considerably higher than those of classic flat yarns. However, this recent surge of development has not been reflected in the technical literature. Many paper have discussed fancy yarns, but these have been predominantly descriptive of the techniques used to achieve various effects. There are not enough available reference sources and data about classification and standardization for the determination of the fundamental parameters that characterize the various fancy yarn types, in order to optimize them and to illustrate them diagrammatically. So the aim of this thesis is to endeavour to fill this gap, at least about the knitted fancy yarns. In this thesis, it is studied on a special fancy yarn machine, Makisan Fancy Yarn Machine, its flexibility and products. This machine supports knitting heads (it may have 1,2,3,4,6,8 or 12 heads), drive assembly, control, take-up and winding units and cone creel on its body. At the beginning of the study, some attachments and knitting heads are affixed to the machine thus the machine is advanced more extensive structure. The origin of the machine could produce only one type of fancy yarn, which is Yumos feathery fancy yarn, by 4 knitting heads. After the assembling, the machine is able to make four types of fancy yarn by 4 knitting heads. xiiiMainly there are two systems: The first type contains knitting units which can be introduced as miniature circular knitting machines. This unit manufactures fancy yarns like hose-pipe whose fineness is adjustable depending on the used knitting needle number. The second system consists of two needles, which knit chain structure by core yarn, and a cutting apparatus, which forms feathery construction by cutting the feather yarn. Normal standard knitting needles are used in the units. The size of the needle may be number 14-18. There are three methods to cut the feather yarn: a) by razor blade. The razor blade is stable on the cutting apparatus, and the cutting apparatus can be taken away or approached to knitter, if the length of feathers is wanted to change in a range of 0.5cm. b)by circular blade. The circular blade is connected with a rotating mechanism. This mechanism can't be moved so the length of the feathers is stable. c) by point blade. The point blade works in knitting unit which contains more than two needle grooves. The cutting mechanism by point blade is simple. The point blade acts like the knitting needles, vertically. Makisan fancy yarn machine produces totally four kinds of fancy yarn: 1-Yumos Feathery Fancy Yarn: It is a feathery yarn whose feather yarn is cut by razor blade. The knitting unit has two needle grooves and carries the cutting apparatus. Because of enabling easy cutting, the feather yarn should be fine. The basic parameters of the Yumos yarn are the loop density, the metric counts of the used yarns, the length of feathers and the used materials. 2-Short Cut Feathery Fancy Yarn: The feather yarn of the Short Cut feathery fancy yarn is cut by a point blade. The knitting unit contains more than two needle grooves, 4, 6, 8, 12 or more. The point blade moves like the needles in the needle groove, up and down. It can cut coarser yarns than the razor blade can. The basic parameters are the loop density, the metric counts of the used yarns, the length of feathers and the materials. 3 -Long Cut Feathery Fancy Yarn: Cutting apparatus is a circular blade and it cuts only when it rotates. Distance between the blade and the needles is stable. There are only two needle grooves. The feather yarn should have fine counts. The xivbasic parameters are the loop density, the metric counts and the materials of the used yarns. 4-Lase (Hose-Pipe Type) Fancy Yarn: This hose-pipe type fancy yarn is produced by knitting a yarn on a miniature circular knitting unit. The number of the needles that make knitting are arranged depending on the used yarn count, it may be 4, 6, 8, 12 or more. The basic parameters of Lase fancy yarn are the loop density, the metric count and the material of the used yarn and the number of the working needles. In this study, how take-up speed effects these fancy yarns' properties is researched. Moreover, elasthan yarns are added into the fancy yarns and how effects the fancy yarns is examined. The thickness of the input yarns, number of the working needles (in Lase fancy yarn production) are varied and the results of these differences are inspected by doing experiments. The obtained fancy yarn samples are conditioned at the standard atmosphere. Then, the final yarn counts, loop densities, breaking strength and breaking extension (%) of these fancy yarns are measured by using sensitive balance, standard meter and breaking strength- extension tester,Textechno Statigraph. Obtained results are presented as tables and diagrammes. As comparision of fancy yarns with and without elasthan, some statistical methods are applied. t-Test and F-Test are practised and according to them, the results are interpreted. The important conclusions driven from the experiments can be summarized as follows: 1. Take-up speed influences clearly the loop densities and the yarn counts. The affects on breaking extension and breaking strength are not net. 2. The experimental results of the fancy yarns with and without elasthan yarn are parallel each other.Especially it is seen at yarn counts and loop densities. According to t and F-Tests, they can be accepted as the same. 3. If the feather yarn gets coarser, Yumos and Long Cut feathery fancy yarns can't produce;but Short Cut feathery fancy yarns can't produce if the feather yarn gets finer. 4. The input yarn count is very effective on the loop density, final count, breaking extension and breaking strength of Lase yarn. xv5. The number of needles is another factor which changes the final count, loop density, breaking strength and breaking extension of Lase fancy yarn. xvi

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