Bir örme konfeksiyon işletmesinde oluşan fire ve fire maliyetinin incelenmesi
Waste and its cost of knitted fabric clothing companies
- Tez No: 75432
- Danışmanlar: PROF. DR. ALİ DEMİR
- Tez Türü: Yüksek Lisans
- Konular: Tekstil ve Tekstil Mühendisliği, Textile and Textile Engineering
- Anahtar Kelimeler: Belirtilmemiş.
- Yıl: 1998
- Dil: Türkçe
- Üniversite: İstanbul Teknik Üniversitesi
- Enstitü: Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü
- Ana Bilim Dalı: Tekstil Mühendisliği Ana Bilim Dalı
- Bilim Dalı: Belirtilmemiş.
- Sayfa Sayısı: 107
Özet
ÖZET Örme konfeksiyon işletmelerinde oluşan fireler ve maliyetlerinin incelendiği bu çalışmada firelerin oluşum yerleri, nasıl azaltılabileceği, değerlendirilip değerlendirilemeyeceği üzerinde durulmuş ve maliyetleri hesaplanmıştır. İlk bölümde örme daireleri ve değişik iplik tipleri için oluşan fireler ve sebepleri incelenmiştir. Örülen kumaşın kalite kontrol sonuçları ve değerlendirmeleri yapılarak maliyetleri hesaplanmıştır. İkinci bölümde ham kumaşların boyahaneye çıkışlarıyla birlikte oluşan fireler, sebepleri ve boya sonrası kalite kontrol sonuçlan değerlendirilerek, bunların maliyetleri üzerinde durulmuştur. Üçüncü bölümde pastal yerleşimi ve kesim aşamasındaki kayıplar ve maliyetleri göz önüne alınmıştır. Tasnif sonrası aksesuarlarıyla birlikte dikime çıkan işlerin fason atölyelerde oluşan fireleri dördüncü bölümde ele alınıp, paketleme aşamasındaki kalite-kontrol sonucundaki adetsel ve maddi kayıp beşinci bölümde incelenmiştir. Üretim esnasında pek göze batmayan ancak toplamda büyük değerlere ulaşan firelerin, iyi bir kalite kontrol sistemiyle birlikte, mantıklı yapılacak planlamalarla azaltılabileceği sonucu son bölümde ele alınmıştır. VI
Özet (Çeviri)
SUMMARY WASTE AND ITS COST AT KNITTED FABRIC CLOTHING COMPANIES Waste which indicates the unusable part of everthing related with production has always been an important subject in industry. It occurs in every step of manufacturing and it shouldn't be exterminated but should be decreased. We can divide the waste into two main groups according to its occuring. a) The compulsory waste which cannot be prevented. b) The waste which occurs by faults The compulsory waste is the waste that becomes and has to be accepted while the process of manufacturing. This is because the efficiencies of raw-materials and the methods which are used are under 100 percent. For example the fabric couldn't be knitted as the same amount of yarns which were sent. The waste which occurs by faults can be decreased by the controlling methods. The defection of fabric, unstable of fabrics, unsuitable sewing process etc. Are the samples of this. All companies determine their own quality strategy besides the international quality standarts and specifications. The application of quality strategy effects the amount of waste. According to the quality standarts of companies it is possible to decrease the amount of waste in time. It is not possible to reach the waste targets unless all the people the genarel manager and the administrators give the same important as demanded from workers. The problem of waste shouldn't be thought as a short-term problem but a strategie problem form a long-term. The products should be inspected in a very detailed way while controlling the productions steps. Because waste should be described for all the products. Waste cost should be checked and changes in quality should be under control. în knitted fabric clothing companies production starts with the purchasing of yam. In the study the phases of manufacturing of ENTARİ GİYİM A.Ş. is taken into account. According to fabric streture, yarn send to suitable knitting department. Vllİn the table, the difference in the amount of yarn and the fabric is easily seen.The ratio of waste depends on; the type of yarn (cotton, cotton-polyester, dyed, melange etc.), knitting department,the old of machine etcDyed yarn gives more waste while knitting.The waste changes from %3 to %8 at knitting procces. After knitting all raw fabrics are controlled in the quality controlling depatmentThe most seen faults are as follows: Holes, oil, yarn color and shape variation, problem causes by machine etc. After control, fabrics classified into 3 groups. 1 -First quality fabrics, 2-Second quality fabrics, 3 -Unusable fabrics. Unusable fabrics are given back to knitters. Second quality fabrics are decided to use %50 waste. The raw fabrics are ready for dyeing.According to the colors and fabric structure, they are sent to the suitable dying house. The waste of the fabric at dying house is related with the dying and finishing processes. VIIIFabric The Quantity The Waste% Stucture of Quantity of Raw Finished Fabric(kg) fabric(kg) 1876 1245 1270 % 10.66 %6.45 %23.96 After finishing, the fabric is examined over an examination table, faults are identified.If there is a problem like in color, shrinkage, color and shape variation, pilling, dye fading and fabric hasn't got straight stripes, it is sent back to dying house for repairing.This causes extra waste. When fabrics is acceptable for the quality standarts, it is ready for cutting. At cutting department, the operatives spread the fabrics by hand. Faults must be located and eliminated from the lay.The entire fabric should not be used because of spreading of model so at cutting department the efficiency is about %85. if there are some faults on the surface of the fabrics, the efficiency will decrease.After cutting, waste of fabrics and end wastes are sold. Then, cutted fabrics are send for sewing with their accessories.Buttons, stoppers and eyelets are rather small pieces, they are easier to disappear and break down so their waste is higher than the other accessories.While sewing process according to faulty pieces and wrong sewings etc. Some products are separated into second quality. The garments come for packaging. There is also another examination in this department.According the examination results, garments are categorized into firsts, IXseconds and rejects. First pass through to loading, seconds may be bended or be repaired in some other way, such as strain removal, loose thread tidying, debris removal etc. Likewise a major rejection fault may be overcome to move the garment into waste. İn this project you will find the main charactericties and types of waste in the steps of manufacturing. Owners and manegers of the companies are worried because of the increase in production costs caused by the waste.By developing the new quality control process, the amount of second quality products and waste can be decreased. But this causes the necessity of employing extra staff for controlling every step of manufacturing. Experiences has proven that the key of effective quality control is managements leadership in the program, if top management wants good quality, less waste, displays leadership in this concerns middle managements and production supervisors will follow trough. This is the waste which can be reduced by taking some precautions in firms.On the other hand the waste which occurs while the manufacturing process can not be taken under some levels.This level must be between acceptable limits and the aim of the firms is to enclose to these levels.
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