Tekstil sektörünün incelenmesi ve fabrika araştırmaları
An Examination of the textile industry and research of the textile factories
- Tez No: 14392
- Danışmanlar: PROF.DR. ATAÇ SOYSAL
- Tez Türü: Yüksek Lisans
- Konular: Tekstil ve Tekstil Mühendisliği, Textile and Textile Engineering
- Anahtar Kelimeler: Belirtilmemiş.
- Yıl: 1991
- Dil: Türkçe
- Üniversite: İstanbul Teknik Üniversitesi
- Enstitü: Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü
- Ana Bilim Dalı: Belirtilmemiş.
- Bilim Dalı: Belirtilmemiş.
- Sayfa Sayısı: 164
Özet
ÖZET TEKSTİL SEKTÖRÜNÜN İNCELENMESİ VE FABRİKA ARAŞTIRMALARI Tekstil sanayii, Türkiye gibi gelişmekte olan ülkeler açısından gerek emek-yoğun bir sanayii dalı olması ve gerekse üretim ve ihracatta önemli bir paya sahip bulunması nedeniyle büyük bir önem taşımaktadır. Ayrıca bu tip ülkeler, tekstil sanayiinin hammaddesine de sahiptirler. Tüm bu özelliklerinden dolayı, bu sanayii dalı Türkiye'de de adeta itici bir güç oluşturmuş, kalkınmanın lokomatif faktörü olma görevini üstlenmiştir. Bu projede, ulusal ekonomimizde böylesine önemli bir yeri olan tekstil sanayinde dünya ülkelerinin durumu, Türk tekstil sanayiinin tarihi gelişimi, üretim kapasitesi, ihracatı, sorunları ve bu sorunlara getirilebilecek çözümler incelenmiş, ayrıca Türk tekstil sanayini yakından ilgilendiren eğitim, tekstil sanayinin geleceği gibi konulara da yer verilmiştir. Araştırmada kullanılan rakamlar, istatistikler; Devlet Planlama Teşkilatı, İhracatı Geliştirme Merkezi (İGEME), Türkiye Sinai Kalkınma Bankası ve Ticaret Odasının son yıllarda yayınladığı istatistiklerden alınmıştır. Genel olarak tesktil sektörü ile ilgili bütün konulara değinilmeye çalışılmış, ayrıca iplik, dokuma örme-konfeksiyon dallarında faaliyet gösteren üç kuruluşta incelemeler yapılarak bu kuruluşlarda kullanılabilecek bir bilgisayar programı geliştirilmiştir. Sonuç olarak Türkiye'de bugün ihracatta ciro ve istihdam imkanı bakımından en büyük üç sanayiden biri olan tekstil sektörümüzde verimlilik düzeyimizin yükseltilmesi gerektiği, modernizasyona ve yeni teknoloji uygulamalarına geçilmesi zorunluluğunun yanısıra, insan faktörünün de gözönüne alınarak eğitime gereken önemin verilmesi gerektiği ortaya çıkmıştır. (yi)
Özet (Çeviri)
SUMMARY AN EXAMINATION OP THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY AND RESEARCH OF THE TEXTILE FACTORIES The aim of this thesis entitled“An Examination of the Textile Industry and Research of the Textile Factories”is to examine the state of the Turkish textile sector, the problems it is facing and the possible solutions it can call upon. To achive this endeavor the thesis is divided into 3 parts. The first part attempts to define Turkey's position in the textile field; that is, how Turkey fares in the world, in Europa and within its borders. The second part examines 3 major factories in Turkey which is specialized in a certain segment of the textile industry. The third and final part describes a Cobol programme designed to make the 3 factories discussed more efficient. Certain subjects in this thesis were only touched upon to briefly familiarize the reader on the parameters of this topic and other more relevant themes were elaborated on in detail. Herewith below is a detailed summary outlining not only the topics covered but the degree to which they are covered based on their significance to an industrial examination of the textile field. The first part of the first section covers the structures and special characteristics inherent in the textile field. It begins by elaborating on the nature and integral part of the textile industry. It is explained and diagramed how fiber is divided into 2 categories, natural and chemical. Natural fiber is subdivided into agricultural, animal and mineral, while chemical fiber is divided into organic and non-organic. Each of the components of both categories are examined in detail, describing their origin, the way they are developed, gathered and processed into different types of products. In the second part, we continue to attempt to present a proper orientation by focusing on the international trend of the textile and garment industry and in the process we find the following conclusions: a- The production of synthetic fibers such as nylons, polyester and acrylic, as well as artificially produced cellulosic fibers has declined while natural fibers such as cotton and wool is on the increase. In fact it is seen that the ratio between natural fibers and artificially producedfibers is 52/48 in favour of the natural fiber. b- The trade in the textile and garment industry is on the increase due to the economic decline of the dollar and other international currencies dependent on it. c- In 1987, for the first time, the balance of trade in textiles between developed and developing nations encountered a gap in favour of the developing countries. This gap was most apparent in the ready-wear garment division. In the third part of the first section, due to its proximity and the great political and economic significance it holds for Turkey, the European Community is examined in detail. The fact that this 12 member organization accounts for more than 1/3 of all textile import and export in the world provided important data to review. After careful scrutiny the following facts were revealed: a- Imports outnumber exports in the European Community. Due to this discrepancy, the textile industry is on the decline and is severe unemployment has resulted. Particularly affected are England, Holland and Belgium. b- Although there is a 15% deficit in the balance of payment in the textile sector of the European Community, Greece and Portugal together have 75% of an export excess. c- Because of the above economic conditions, certain factors are causing the European Community to add certain clauses to all contracts that they enter with non-EC countries and what measures this particular community is taking to both decrease demand and modernize in order to increase their efficiency. In the fourth part of the first section we concentrate on the textile and garment industry in Turkey. We first begin by examining the nine fundamental parameters on the Turkish textile industry from raw material to export to technology; we delve into the problems encountered in the industry and suggest a few possible solutions, all of which are described briefly below: a- The first parameter discusses the source of Turkey's raw materials and expresses that it is relatively rich in resources because it is an agricultural country. Turkey is especially rich in cotton and has been found to be the number (v,m)7 producer in the world and the number 1 producer in Europe. b- The second parameter examines the different categories of products manufactured in Turkey. Among those produced are cotton knits, weaving fabrics, silk cloths, rugs, yarns, threads, certain industrial material, ready made wear and a variety of woven products. The produced material encompasses pratically every variety imaginable outside of medical sutures and specially treated industrial fabrics. c- The third parameter explains the production capacity by dwelling on the avaliable machinery park and the amounts produced. Here we find that cotton yarn and threads are produced by using relatively advanced technigues. Statistics are provided which display which material is produced with what type of machinery and what the production level attained is. d- The fourth parameter provides a income table for the tonnage produced of the various items. Cotton again comes out on top as the most valuable product. e- The fifth parameter examines the textile exports of Turkey which accounts for 3 0% of all of Turkey's total exports. Turkey ' s number one customer is the European Community. An interesting fact uncovered is that outside of ready-made cotton wear, all of Turkey's textile and garment products is on the increase. f- The sixth parameter views the organizational structure of the textile factories in terms of the number of available factories and labour force. The items produced are separated by regions. g- The seventh parameter explores the cheap labour power. h- The eight parameter examines the standard level of education and the available textile vocational schools. i- The final parameter examines the level of technology. Continuing on to the major problems encountered by the textile industry of Turkey we see how the lack of certain important raw materials such as dyes and other additives vital to the industry burdens the textile industry financially. The fact that the price of cotton has risen astronomically is becoming so severe a problem that it is (w)causing multi-shutdowns. Another major problem is lack of proper international marketing know-how due to insufficient and improper communication channels and a unlucrative internal market due to the lack of buying power of the people which is caused by unending inflation. Difficulties of the foreign market due to imposed quotas- the historical reasons behind quotas- how they are distributed and what will be in effect for the year 1991- which categories are restricted by which countries- and the 23 most important issues encountered by the exporters including redtape in processing documents, insufficient information with outside markets, high interest on credits, inflation and fluctuations of foreign currencies create unstable pricing, the unavailability of an efficient transportation system, the high cost of energy needed to run the factories, the quickly changing incentive programs, bad packaging, the difficulty of opening foreign branch office, the decrease in labour productivity, insufficient and inaccurate information on the requirements of foreign markets and competition in those markets, the late remittance of payment by buyers, the difficulties and restrictions involved in sending samples, dealing with outdated technology and the inability to project a positive image outside because of the lack of sophisticated marketing techniques. There are also cost related problems stemming from lack of certain vital raw materials such as additives needed in processing, the interest rates charged, the depreciation and cost of energy. The cost of labour is the least of the problems faced. The issues regarding quality is due to high cost and lack of education. Because the raw materials imported are expensive and the labour is untrained, final material ends as low in quality. On the investment side, we must switch from being heavily dependent on labour to modern machines but finding financial backing is difficult and the interest rates are high. The final major problem is education. There are not enough vocational schools to provide education or pratical experience to produce the needed trained efficient laborers and technicians. Among the solutions we suggest are the following: In order to produce better products, the right information must be analyzed by production, sales and capacity. A new export (X)policy must be devised that will end dictation by the buyer and open a communication line that will allow both parties to negotiate the various points in a contract. Products must be developed that does not have too much competition and restrictive quotas. High quality products must be designed that will yield a competitive adge as well as better income. The invesment policies must be based on economic rather than social factors especially regarding planned sites. Instead of creating new factories, we should develop and modernize existing facilities. A more positive educational policy must be utilized. More specialized schools equipped with proper and modern machinery will produce the qualified personnel needed. Regarding technology, one must become a producer of technology rather than a buyer. The fifth part of the first section examinees benefits of cooperation between the textile industry and the Universities. It is suggested that the University can aid the textile sector in its financial and invesment planning, creating systems and by finding solutions to technical difficulties regarding product development and application of computers. The industry can also be of service to Universities by providing pratical education and assist students on their research projects as well as to support publications. The final part of the first section projects what the textile industry is expected to be like in the year 2000. The most important factors will be socioeconomic factors, regarding population and the level of incomes. The second part of this thesis analyzes 3 important sectors of the Textile Industry, namely Spinning, Weaving and the Knitting/Ready made garment wear through a study of 3 factories belonging to NASCO NASREDDIN HOLDING A.S. The different processes: opening, picking, carding, combing, drawing, roving, spinning, winding, doubling, twisting, the machinery park, production and the quality of the spinning factory“NASCOTEKS”, is discussed first. Second, the production line Dornier Jaquard, Dornier Dobby, Gusken Jaquard, Gusken Dobby and the machinery of the weaving factory“ALTINMEKIK”is examined. Lastly, the garment capacity, machinery park and quality control of the ready- (xi)made garment wear factory of“NASCOTEKS-YILDIZ”is studied. The third and final section describes a COBOL computer programme created especially for the factories, refers to above. This programme is presented above to enable the organization to maintain control over the following critical areas: Idendification of the product in terms of size, color, drop, fabric content, sex, season and cost; to trace the product movement from factory to, and between retail outlets; as well as to maintain a detailed inventory of stock. Thus the following pages venture to present a full perspective on the textile industry as it exists in Turkey at this juncture. Conclusions, drived from the above, may hopefully further enhance EC realization of Turkey's potentials in the realm of the textile field. (xn)
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